Horse Stalls Guide

Hello and WELCOME to Horse Stalls Guide. From Kings to our little princesses that we buy ponies for (our children), the love of horses knows no bounds. All horses, small and great, need a place to rest. And so through this website here are some insights and tips for designing and building horse stalls for our noble creatures. As builders and a horse professional myself, we have a unique opportunity to show you a slightly different side of horse barn design coupled with experience.

No matter what type of horse you have, there are certain things which are universal. Older style barns many times have tie stalls or low overheads. So let’s start from square one and out line some stall ideas.

When building a barn, or remodeling one, the stalls should be 12 feet wide. This width allows for even the big warm bloods to have plenty of room without wasting space. Yes, large areas are nice, but keep in mind when you build a stall that you are not trying to build an indoor paddock. The purpose of a stall is to have a more confined area to work in and keep a horse.

A 12′x12′ stall is ideal for the vast majority of horses. For foaling stalls or stallions stalls, adding an additional six feet to the stall, to make a 12′x18′ area, is a great idea. This allows more room for the mare and foal. When handling and halter breaking a foal, that extra 6 feet of length is valuable. For stallions a larger stall is good. Many times a stallion has to be stabled more than other horses, so having a little extra space is helpful.

A nice design for horse stables is to have a 16 to 20 foot wide aisle running down the middle of the barn and a row of stalls on each side. The the stall rows should each be 12 feet wide, yielding a building that is a minimum of 40 feet. A wide aisle has many benefits ranging from backing a hay wagon in, to riding young horses, and just grooming on cross ties.

To provide good ventilation and also for safety, a 12 foot high clearance over the stalls and the aisle is wise. Many professional “stall ride” young horses in the very beginning. The higher overhead allows for this. Also if a horse rears or jumps sideways, the high overhead prevents them from hitting their head on the barn ceiling.

Horse stall walls should be about five feet high on the sides and front. Then 2″x4″ wire, chain link, or bars should be installed above the top board of the stall wall. This allows for more ventilation between stalls but still keeps the horses from touching or biting each other over the wall. When building stalls, either stall kits or from scratch, it is imperative that the stall wall comes completely to the floor. There should never be a gap wider than four inches at the bottom of a wall. If there is a gap, the floor level should be raised, or an additional board added to the bottom of the wall. This prevents horses from getting their legs trapped under the wall.

Stall doors can be either hung on hinges or mounted on rollers and tacking. Both have advantages. When using rolls and track, the track should be mounted a minimum of 8 feet above the door. In prefab stall kits this is not usually an option, but when building them on site it is a wise choice. The higher overhead allows for a horse to rear in a door way and not hit their pole. Also a taller door way can be used to ride through. Sometimes riding through a door happens when it is not supposed to. My first pony took me on several such tours when I was a child.

Horse feeders can be either simply a bucket hung from a screw eye, a corner feeder, or a swing out feeder/ manger combo. A corner feeder can be built into the stall. The swing out mangers are hung on the aisle side of the stall on hinges.

For under foot, horse stall mats are a good choice. Ranging from flat edged, to interlocking, and drain through. Mats do provide pressure relief to the horses, limits the amount of shaving required, and also makes a clean surface in the case of an injury.

Whatever your choice, horse stalls are above all to be safe, roomy, and comfortable for our equine treasures. Read on for more ideas and design elements for horse barns and horse stalls.

Horse Stalls Guide

Horse Stall Latches

Horse Stalls Guide- a look at latches

Horse stall latches are as varied as the animals they contain. A simple latch can include a slide bolt, chain with a snap, gravity close, no latches, a horse shoe clip, or a simple slide peg or pen.

Latches are very important as of course our horse treasures could escape and get hurt. A simple slide bolt is very common. The draw backs to it is that the bolts many time become hard to operate. With a vast majority of women working around barns, the latches need to be such that they can operate them. If a door begins to drag some, the bolt will not slide as it should. If using them, careful attention has to be paid that the bolts stay in working order.

Some barns simply mount a round ring on the horse stalls, put a snap on the end of a short chain, and that is the latch. An economical solution, it also does not stop working even if the door drags. The main down fall is if the snap itself breaks. When bolted to the end of the chain, replacement of it might not be the simplest.

A gravity close system is the newest idea. It is very clever and does keep the horse from escaping since it latches as soon as the door is closed. The down fall is if a small child goes into the stall and closes the door. They can become trapped because they cannot reach the gravity latch. Another draw back is that if someone leads a horse into the stall, the door closes, and the horse panics, the handler cannot just yank on the door and have it open. They would have to make it to the gravity latch to let themselves out.

A slide pin is a good option. The slide pin is simple, but can be the easiest for the horses to open with their mouths. If you have an escape artist, be sure their is no way for them to wrap their lips around the slide pin.

Horse are a dream, desire, and passion of people all over the world. Custom designing a horse barn and horse stalls to match your passion is fun, enjoyable, and also a journey. We will never totally out think the horse. Over time we learn from them and develop better and improved designs for all of our man made horse equipment.

Horse Stalls Guide

Horse Stall Mats

Horse stall guides- looking to MATS-

Horse stall mats are another angle to making our horses comfortable. We all know standing on concrete is very hard on the body. The same is true for our equine friends. Even when a horse stall is lined with dirt or clay, the mats reduce the amount of shavings or bedding required.

There are three main types of horse stall mats: flat edged, interlocking, and pass through.

The pass through design is perfect for wash racks. The hole format provide traction as well as water flow away from the horses feet. In areas with water, the pass through mats allow for the water to escape and flow down the drain. Another good use for this style of mat is when a horse in injured. Some injuries are very susceptible to sawdust and shaving invasion. In this case the mat keeps the horse off of the ground while still giving some support.

Interlocking mats move less than their flat edged cousins. Constructed like a large puzzle, they stay put, provide a tighter fit, and also keep more moisture from penetrating down below the mat. On a cement surface, this can be a big advantage. Urine that is trapped under the mats can really make for a bad odor and a mess to clean.

Flat edged mats typically have ribbing or grooves on the back. This helps to keep the mat in place. Over time the mat will shift some. It is not a good idea to just lay a single mat in the middle of the stall. It is much better to cut mats to fit the entire area.

Some horse stalls may not need matting. One must carefully look at the ground surface. If rocks are everywhere, then a mat may still be necessary. Sometimes it is possible to simply top dress the stall area with topsoil. But more bedding is required if no horse stall mats are used.

Horse Stalls Guide