Horse Stalls Guide

Hello and WELCOME to Horse Stalls Guide. From Kings to our little princesses that we buy ponies for (our children), the love of horses knows no bounds. All horses, small and great, need a place to rest. And so through this website here are some insights and tips for designing and building horse stalls for our noble creatures. As builders and a horse professional myself, we have a unique opportunity to show you a slightly different side of horse barn design coupled with experience.

No matter what type of horse you have, there are certain things which are universal. Older style barns many times have tie stalls or low overheads. So let’s start from square one and out line some stall ideas.

When building a barn, or remodeling one, the stalls should be 12 feet wide. This width allows for even the big warm bloods to have plenty of room without wasting space. Yes, large areas are nice, but keep in mind when you build a stall that you are not trying to build an indoor paddock. The purpose of a stall is to have a more confined area to work in and keep a horse.

A 12′x12′ stall is ideal for the vast majority of horses. For foaling stalls or stallions stalls, adding an additional six feet to the stall, to make a 12′x18′ area, is a great idea. This allows more room for the mare and foal. When handling and halter breaking a foal, that extra 6 feet of length is valuable. For stallions a larger stall is good. Many times a stallion has to be stabled more than other horses, so having a little extra space is helpful.

A nice design for horse stables is to have a 16 to 20 foot wide aisle running down the middle of the barn and a row of stalls on each side. The the stall rows should each be 12 feet wide, yielding a building that is a minimum of 40 feet. A wide aisle has many benefits ranging from backing a hay wagon in, to riding young horses, and just grooming on cross ties.

To provide good ventilation and also for safety, a 12 foot high clearance over the stalls and the aisle is wise. Many professional “stall ride” young horses in the very beginning. The higher overhead allows for this. Also if a horse rears or jumps sideways, the high overhead prevents them from hitting their head on the barn ceiling.

Horse stall walls should be about five feet high on the sides and front. Then 2″x4″ wire, chain link, or bars should be installed above the top board of the stall wall. This allows for more ventilation between stalls but still keeps the horses from touching or biting each other over the wall. When building stalls, either stall kits or from scratch, it is imperative that the stall wall comes completely to the floor. There should never be a gap wider than four inches at the bottom of a wall. If there is a gap, the floor level should be raised, or an additional board added to the bottom of the wall. This prevents horses from getting their legs trapped under the wall.

Stall doors can be either hung on hinges or mounted on rollers and tacking. Both have advantages. When using rolls and track, the track should be mounted a minimum of 8 feet above the door. In prefab stall kits this is not usually an option, but when building them on site it is a wise choice. The higher overhead allows for a horse to rear in a door way and not hit their pole. Also a taller door way can be used to ride through. Sometimes riding through a door happens when it is not supposed to. My first pony took me on several such tours when I was a child.

Horse feeders can be either simply a bucket hung from a screw eye, a corner feeder, or a swing out feeder/ manger combo. A corner feeder can be built into the stall. The swing out mangers are hung on the aisle side of the stall on hinges.

For under foot, horse stall mats are a good choice. Ranging from flat edged, to interlocking, and drain through. Mats do provide pressure relief to the horses, limits the amount of shaving required, and also makes a clean surface in the case of an injury.

Whatever your choice, horse stalls are above all to be safe, roomy, and comfortable for our equine treasures. Read on for more ideas and design elements for horse barns and horse stalls.

Horse Stalls Guide

Horse Stalls And Caring For Equine Wounds

Horses are notorious for getting into things. It doesn’t seem to matter sometimes how good of an environment we provide for our horses, they still get hurt. I also think horses have their very own calendars. Have you ever tried to get a vet to come out on a Saturday or Sunday night? It is not easy to find one that will respond to your emergency calls. Horse stalls are a good place to put an injured horse while you wait for a vet to arrive.

A week ago, on a Sunday morning, a very nice young horse that lives at our farm came into the barn with a swollen leg. If you have ever worked on a two year old, you know that it can be a challenge. The best thing we did first was to catch her and then put her in the box stall. The confinement of space allowed us maneuver her into a corner. With one of us holding her and the second trying to feel of the flesh wound, she hopped around the stall. After a quick check the best thing was to run water on the wound. We transferred her to the rubber matted wash stall and held her. It is a good idea not to tie the young horse when working on them. Later, as they gain more experience, tying is fine, but horses have to learn to stand tied. With one handler and one person on the hose we began running cold water on the wound.

Slowly, as the water slightly numbed the area, we slowly rubbed away the dirt and other matter that had collected around the wound. Closer inspection revealed a small opening at the top of the blood covered area. Very commonly a horse will not just have a scrape. A vast majority of horse wounds also have a puncture wound. The best way to treat a puncture wound is to purchase a mastitis tube. These tubes are similar to a worming tube. A mastitis tube, commonly marked “Tomorrow for Dry Cows” is designed for putting an antibiotic up into an infected utter of a cow. But let me tell you, I haven’t found anything better for treating punctures. You simply insert the end of the tube into the puncture and them press the plunger until the medicine comes back out of the wound. Deeper wounds may require half or even an entire tube, but at $2.25 per tube, it is a very economical treatment.

So back to the young horse—

After running water on it, she was not at all inclined to let us use the mastitis tube on her. We took her back to her box stall. Along one wall I have a tie mounted in the middle of the side of the stall wall. This is the first place I tie babies. It is a good idea to drill a hole and mount a ring for tying to. The ring should be mounted at the top of the solid part of the horse stall wall and just under the bars or wire. This provides a solid place to tie the horse lead rope to. Tying directly to the bars or wire can bend or break them. So using a ring is a very good solution.

With the more confined horse stall, the stall door shut, and the horse tied to the ring, her movements were limited. I still kept a lead rope attached from her halter to my hand so I could turn her towards me while I worked on the puncture wound. I began scratching her and talking to her. I rubbed her shoulder and neck, and then while I rubber her chest with one hand I slid the mastitis tube into the hole and pushed. It only took a second and I only had a second before she jerked back. But still I got enough into the hole to make it come back out.

The danger with wounds that heal over and are not left to drain is tetanus. So whenever you have a horse with any sort of wound, be sure to check for a puncture wound. Tying a horse in the horse stall reduces the movement and also keeps them from hurting themselves more. Working on a horse outside is fine, but especially with a young horse, a more confined area, such as the horse stalls, can be safer for both horse and handler. Mounting a ring on the side of the stall also provides a good training aid, a place to tie.

Horse Stall Maintenance

Horse inside stall, Photo from Flickr.com vw4ross

For anyone who has ever had horses, you know first hand about horse stall maintenance. It seems not matter how ‘horse proof’ we strive to make their surrounding, they always find a way to chew on something, kick a wall, or even groove the wood with horse size teeth prints. Once the weather is warmer there are some simple steps to turning your stable back into the horsey palace it once was when it was first built.

The first step is to get the stalls down to the bare floor. Whether that is a dirt floor, cement, or something else, in order to repair walls, the horse stall bottom must be ‘found’. The very most important thing to fix first is any rottenness in boards along the floor of the stall wall. The danger here is horses legs becoming trapped under the walls or doors and subsequently breaking a leg. For stalls lined with plywood, the boards should be cut back to where the wood is solid and not rotten. Cutting should be done from upright stud to upright stud on the wall. Then a new piece of plywood installed. When lumber such as 2×6′s or 2×10′s are used for the stall walls, then any boards that are rotten should be removed, once again, stud to stud. Screwing boards into place verses nailing make them easier to remove for repairs. If a board is rotten half way or a quarter of the way through the board, the whole board should be removed, not just part of it. This retains the strength board to board.

Another area of attention for board repair is under the water buckets or around the automatic waterers. These areas attract a lot of moisture and are more prone to rotting.

The final place for attention is wherever a horse has decided he is a beaver. Rotten wood and pine seem to attract horses the most. It is amazing to me how an animal as large as a horse can turn beaver in a second. The chewed boards should be removed and replaced. Painting Chew Stop can help repell horse mouths. Also covering areas with metal or wire can help. Also the use of oak boards is a great way to keep the horse teeth at bay. It really is rewarding to see your horse stalls back in top shape. And it is easy to think to yourself, “Boy, the more time the spend outside, the less time the old or young horse will spend inside destroying things!”

Horse Stalls Guide